Red Centre and Beyond 2011 Daily Blog

Perth to Kalgoolie
With the sun almost beyond the western horizon, still shining its golden rays eastward with the shadows of the many Eucalyptus trees forging their ever darkening shadows further across the road. Poetic I hear you say? Enough of that rubbish, all I cared about at this stage, after a long day on the saddle, is to seek relief for my aching backside.

Having arrived in Kalgoolie, I followed a fellow rider thinking “he looks like he knows where the caravan park is” to be proven wrong but during this detour we did see many newly constructed large homes in new estates all due to the gold mining boom going on as the price of gold seems to be breaking new records daily

We obtained directions from a local who was, my butt was very pleased to know, able to direct us straight to the caravan park where the riders taking part in this years Black Dog Ride to the Red Centre had registered to spend the night.

Okay, I have started at close to the end of the day so let’s go back to where it all began.
Perth could not have given us a better send off with the beautiful sunny morning and we were sure to be ahead of the wet stuff falling from above which had been forcasted for later in the day. Speaking of send offs, I was so happy to see the members of the Perth Sunset Scooter Club who turned out to  send me off with their love and best wishes or did they come alone just to ensure I was leaving.

After the obligatory speeches were completed, we set off up over the Perth Hills. Forty motorcycles and one scooter leaving Perth with another 14 to meet up with us at Kalgoolie and Norseman on our way to Alice Springs.

Along the road there were a couple of times where Police called a temporary halt to two riders. The first to be pulled over was fireman Sam. The Police Officer must have been a very community minded bloke as he suggested to Sam there were two ways they could handle the excessive speed he was riding at, 124 in a 110 kilometre zone. The Police officer gave Sam the choice. The first and less attractive was the required paper work be completed for the on the spot fine which would have also cost him a few points, or Sam could make a commitment to the Police Officer, which he eagerly agreed with, that he make a donation of $75 to the Black Dog Foundation. How could one possibly resist that sort of offer?

The next rider was no where near as fortunate. No offers nor discussion, the paper work was pulled out and completed. As Ned Kelly is said to have said with his final words “Such is life”.

I also lost out on the day, nothing to do with the law although I was told the way my thermos, full of my planned coffee intake for the day, went flying off the back of the scooter like a missile. The same thermos I had spent $34 buying only a week or two earlier.

It wasn’t much after this I decided to pull over and have a cigarette. There are those, I being one of them, who believe cigarettes are far too expensive but what makes them more expensive is when, having finished a smoko, you hit the road once again to realise a couple of kilometres later down the road, you have left your sun glasses there for someone else to happen upon. The next stop for me was the next servo for the purchase of a new pair. Is this the reason people keep saying “Leigh, give it up”?

The unexpected high 20 degree temperatures caused quite a bit of heat to build up with everyone having their winter riding gear on. It wasn’t long before I pulled out the inside liner of my riding jacket which I managed, just, to stuff in between my luggage and the tightly drawn bungy straps. In the later part of the morning and early afternoon we rode with strong cross winds which was a concern to all riders. It was fortunate these died down later to give us the sun on our backs with ideal riding conditions other than, of course, my earlier mentioned, aching backside.

The scooter attracted the normal amount of attention whenever I pulled up for fuel. It ran extremely well and kept with the pack throughout the day. 

 Once we had checked in at the Caravan Park, it was time for a quick shower then off in a coach to drive us to the Miners and Workers Club in Boulder for a meal, a few drinks and to collect a very large donation organised by the Ulysses Motor Cycle Club of Kalgoolie. They have been given great support by local businesses, media and various fund raising activities with all funds, in excess of $5,000, raised going to the benefit of the Black Dog Institute. Well done to all concerned.

Back at the caravan park, I made every effort to connect to the internet to upload the first of many diaries, without success. In the end, having the power cord  for the laptop still tightly packed under the saddle with my camping gear sitting heavily upon it, I gave up and had a very sound sleep.

Day 2                         22 August 2011
Kalgoolie to Madura Pass

Today was going to be one long ride. I was up and out of bed before the birds had even finished their dreaming let alone catching worms. I repacked the top box and quietly set about getting ready for the day ahead while Jim, who shared the same cabin, tried to sleep on until finally arising at 6.30.

A bloke named Harry had heard me joke the night before about my backside hurting saying I should buy a blow up swimming ring to ride on offered me the use of a mate’s Air Haw. Mark, his mate, who had earlier told all and sundry he didn’t need such a thing and those who did were woosies, was more than happy to let me use it. I was only too pleased to have met such people who were happy to help another when needed.  

All involved in the ride were to meet at the BP service station so Jim and I were two of the first to arrive, have our first coffee and some sort of breakfast (the food really left a lot to be desired). We were now, well and truly, ready to hit the road. I, like a few others, were very keen to see the end of the days ride as early as possible.

At Norseman Jim, who was to return home via Esperence and Albany, and I parted company. It was certainly great to have a mate ride along this far with me.

Riding out of Norseman, the conditions were excellent with a strong tail wind and come lunch time I had arrived in Balladonia well ahead of the main pack. The scooter appeared to be running well traveling at 110 kph.  but as I went out to pass a road train, having opened up the throttle, the scooter did not respond as it should have as it began to stutter continuously if the speed was a touch over the 110kph mark. Thinking this problem may have been caused by some bad fuel I had taken on board at Balladonia.

My riding for the day was nearing at an end as I began the drop from the escarpment at Madura. Having checked into my room at a little before 4.00 p.m. , I was very pleased to have completed the 720 kilometres from Kalgoolie, the first to have arrived, but the scooter problem did cause me some concern.

Day 3             23 August 2011

Madura to Ceduna (Well, not quite)

Up before most others, I hit the road however the thick fog, which cut visibility down to a matter of only 50 metres or so, did slow me down a great deal and yet there were those who passed me as if I was standing still. Far too dangerous for my liking particularly as there was every chance Kangaroos could still be hopping about at that time in the morning. With a full tank of new fuel, I had hoped the problem of yesterday would have today cleared but this was not to be the case which led me to think there may be a problem with the spark plug or the fuel filter. What ever the case, I thought it would have to be checked out at the first available opportunity. The fuel warning light came on when I was a little over 30 kilometres west of Eucla where I could refuel but the scooter came to a stop as I was half way up the climb to Eucla. This was of no concern as I was carrying a spare 5 litres in my plastic fuel can for this purpose with Border Village a little over 12 kilometres further along the road where we were to stop for morning tea before starting the trip across the Nullabor.

Yes, I was counting my chickens before they hatched or placing the cart before the horse as my scooter, without any notice began to rev wildly before I realised I had no further drive as the scooter slowed to a halt. Still ahead of the three backup vehicles, I wasn't afraid of having to make my own way from this point on however, I did manage to push the scooter a kilometre or so along the road to the Border Village Servo arriving just before the first back up vehicle.

Naturally, it came as a great disappointment to me knowing I could no longer ride with the group until such time as I could reach somewhere where someone with a proficient knowledge of the inner workings of a scooter could have a look at it. All I knew for sure was, having previously seen the material used in the assembly of a drive belt, I knew that was the problem as shreds of material were being pushed out of the motor.

I was able to call the South Australian distributors of Piaggio scooters advising them of my situation. After telling them we would be overnight in Ceduna then travelling on through Port Augusta before arriving in Alice Springs, they suggested the best place to have the repairs made would be at “Desert Edge Motorcycles” in Alice Springs. They then took my credit card details and confirmed they would have a drive belt sent immediately to the repairer to ensure it was available by the time I was in Alice Springs. 

All those around were assuring me I will complete the trip to Glen Helen Resort one way or another. With the help of six others, the scooter was placed upon a backup trailer, my luggage placed in another vehicle and I in the last.

Being the only scooter rider taking part in this event, it didn’t impress anyone toward this form of transport although there were those who did say they were very surprised by its performance up to this point.

The rest of the day was rather dark for me as I kept thinking of how disappointed I was not to have been able to make the entire trip under my own steam. Andrew, the driver of the backup vehicle I now found myself in, tried to tell me it could have happened to anyone and things will turn out well in the end. 

We lunched at the Nullabor Road House before setting off for Ceduna, 315 kilometres further on where we spent the night. Upon arriving at Ceduna, it was into the shower and then off to the local football club licenced rooms for a dinner and reception put on for us by the Ceduna Lions Club.

Day 4             24 August 2011

Ceduna to Port Augusta

The day started off for me at a little after 2.30 a.m. when I awoke in my tent freezing. No matter what I did to get warm, I was unable to do so and couldn’t sleep again and was greatly relieved to find the sun finally rising some 4 hours later. This problem would not have been so great if all my things were sitting on my scooter as I would have very quickly put on my riding gear which would have assured me of being able to get quite warm and therefore, get some much needed sleep. Having all of my belongings scattered between three backup vehicles also made me realise I couldn't change clothes which, by this time, had just about started to walk by themselves.

Andrew, the support driver I was travelling with, was not a breakfast person so it wasn’t until we arrived at Wudinna where I was able to get a coffee and sandwich.   It was here where, if not for the good humour and camaraderie of all on the ride, things could have become a little ugly. I have never come across so many of those who treat their motorcycles with so much love and care. At the end of each days riding you would find many washing down and sprucing up their machines ensuring every little piece of chrome shone. 

It was at Wudinda where, after refuelling, about 8 motorcycles were parked between the fuel pumps and the road, not far from a long and wide puddle of muddy water. One rider, Stumpy, who decided he would try to ride through this puddle became bogged. I instantly thought someone would have to get wet and muddy to help get him out but this was not the case. The rider just opened up his throttle throwing an incredible amount of mud all over the other motorcycles. There was a shout of “Whoa” by a few and I thought any thing could happen here but it wasn’t to be. The extra revs managed to get some traction as the motorcycle was manoeuvred out of the mud with the rider still unaware of the effect on the others. With that, laughter broke out and it was great to have all concerned seeing the funny side of the situation.  

The day ended with us in Port Augusta. Having set up our tents we hiked it to the local Football Club rooms where we enjoyed a few cold beers and so much food laid on our plates with the Lions Club of Port Augusta hosting the event.  There were quite a number of the riders who were still drinking well past midnight. How they were able to be back out at first light on their bikes was beyond me.

Day 5             25 August 2011

Port Augusta to Coober Pedy

One of our shortest days on the ride was greatly appreciated by all concerned. Before hitting the road once again I called the distributors of Piaggio in Adelaide to ask them to forward another drive belt to Alice Springs as a spare. My reasoning was, if I have a spare I won’t need it.

The scenery over the day never much changed with very few trees and long straight stretches of flat road  to be travelled however there was one photo opportunity which stood out above all others on this ride to date. We pulled into a rest stop looking over Hart Lake. Rarely does it hold any water but, following the unseasonal rains they have had in the area in recent times, the lake was covered with water. A sight deserving the “wow” I let out. It was simplly beautiful and awe inspiring. I took a number of photographs which certainly did not do justice to the scene.

On the road again we were seeing more and more mounds of earth dug out by opal miners hoping they would strike it rich as we neared the Opal Capital of the World, Coober Pedy. Having arrived in Coober Pedy, instead of fulfilling one of my life dreams by spending one night in an underground motel room, I decided to sleep in a cabin in the same caravan park as my back up driver meaning he would not need to worry about dropping me off nor picking me up the following morning. This life long ambition of mine will be satisfied on my return trip south once I have had the opportunity to view Alice Springs, Uluru and the Olgas.

Today was the first time during this trip I was very happy being a passenger in the support vehicle instead of being on the scooter. Having not suffered from asthma for many years, I found my lungs were tightening and breathing became harder as we travelled north causing me to have frequent bouts of coughing. With this, there is no way I could have concentrated on riding which would have placed me at risk.

I had no opportunity to go into the town of Coober Pedy so I will need to do this on my return trip.

Day 6             26 Aug 2011

Coober Pedy to Alice Springs

I had a very bad sleep overnight with my breathing becoming more difficult. My efforts to find someone who used Ventelin failed and I was becoming more concerned as the day wore on but didn’t want to involve any one else so I just needed to put up with this worsening condition.

Later in the day the environment along the road became more scenic with us climbing higher above sea level and with very large rocky outcrops appearing more and more frequently.

After pulling into the Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge in Alice Springs the chap who had my scooter on his trailer was more than happy to take the scooter and myself into where it was to be repaired that evening to ensure it could be looked at and hopefully repaired prior to the trip out to Glen Helen Resort, 132 kilometres out of Alice Springs, where the Black Dog Ride to the Red Centre comes to an end.

With my breathing becoming more and more laboured, I decided to catch a taxi from the repairer to the local hospital as I had become very concerned I may be unable to go any longer without emergency assistance. Once at the hospital I was very quickly placed on oxygen which made it a great deal easier for me. After a couple of hours I was discharged with the required medication in hand.

Day 7             27 Aug 2011

Alice Springs to Glen Helen Resort, at least they were the plans

The repair shop had ensured me they would be working on my scooter first thing in the morning with every hope they would have it repaired and ready for me to collect it prior to the Display Ride of all those taking part in the Black Dog Ride. This display ride would be starting at 11.30 a.m. and would take us from the Alice Springs Casino to the centre of town where we would be welcomed by the mayor and local media. Once this had come to an end, all would be riding out to Glen Helen Resort for the night returning to Alice Springs the following day.

At 10.00 a.m. I called the repairers to learn there was a great deal more damage to the scooter than first thought. More parts would need to be flown up from either Melbourne or Adelaide and they should have these by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. I was very disappointed and now, with me having very sore eyes, sinus pain and blocked nasal passages together with my breathing still laboring, I decided the best thing for me to do was to stay at the Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge and not go on to the final stage of the ride.

With all this, I felt not at all happy with my situation which isn’t too difficult to understand I guess.

Day 8             28 August 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

It’s just as well, I thought, the remaining trip I had planned was not be set in stone as I wait until the scooter is back on the road, possibly Tuesday but more likely Wednesday but then again, it could be later. I’m trying to be positive as I could have been stranded in a much smaller place than Alice Springs. I walk out on the back veranda of the room I am in and see the very rugged and rocky cliff which is part of The Gap in which the Todd River, when it has water in it, flows through. In the evening there are many Rock Wallabies to be seen climbing the rugged rocks. With very little fear of humans, they come down to be hand fed by tourists. I was hoping to be able to video this however it appears as though my video camera is broken without me being able to start it up.

Day 9                         29 August 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

Suffering from Hay Fever type symptoms with sore eyes and sinus’ aching with me also coughing, I caught a taxi into Alice Springs CBD, if you could call it that, to find a pharmacy open to obtain some antihistamines hoping these will improve my present situation. 

 Day 10                      30 August 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

Feeling too ill to eat anything for the last 24 hours but trying to keep my fluid intake up to normal levels, it has become obvious I now have some sort of infection. I again take a taxi to the hospital to seek antibiotics. After a number of hours I have  chest xrays  confirming I have mild pneumonia. With no hospital beds available, it was arranged to have a nurse visit me tomorrow in my room at the lodge to check on my condition.

I received a call from Desert End Motorcyles confirming they have received the required parts for the scooter and there is every chance the scooter will be okay to be picked up tomorrow afternoon not that I feel well enough to ride. I will need to stick around Alice Springs until my health improves so, will need to check  to see if the room I am now in is available for a few days to come. There is no way I feel I could be riding on a safe basis. 

Day 11           31 Aug 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

A new day with me feeling a little better although do still require the antihistamines to keep my head clear and to help in stopping my cough.

Received a call from Desert Edge Motorcycles to advise my scooter was ready to be collected and with very little time wasted, I ordered a taxi and was soon checking out the parts which had to be replaced. I was very pleased to be able to, after all the waiting, view the sites of Alice Springs. After travelling about 4 kilometres the scooter motor began to make an ear piercing sound. Pulling up on the side of the road, I called Desert Edge Motorcycles who sent their van to pick up the scooter to take it back to the workshop. At this time I asked if they had a loner they could provide me with while my scooter was being fixed. I was able to then ride away on a 125 cc Honda Scooter. They suggested I return in the morning which will give the mechanics some time to find out what is wrong.

I rode back to the Heavitree Outback Lodge having a beer at the bar. While there, I met a couple of motorcyclists who had not yet left Alice following the Black Dog Ride. Told them of my scooter problems and they asked where it was being repaired. When I told them it was at Desert Edge Motorcycles they both suggested I don’t leave town for a few days giving it time for me to find more problems with the scooter as the repairers were known to have a bad reputation for their sloppy work. I can only hope this latest problem I have had will be the last.

Tomorrow, should I again have my scooter, will get out a little more and check out the Alice and surrounding areas while waiting for my health to improve sufficiently to be able to ride safely over a longer distance. 

 Day 12          1 Sep 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

Had a very bad night with my breathing again very difficult with almost every breath bringing on more coughing. Stayed in bed until late afternoon when it was again time to take myself off to the hospital. Was on oxygen for a couple of hours. While there I was called to be advised the scooter was ready to be collected. Was really not up to riding and would have been more than happy to take another taxi back to the lodge but feared I must at least try to get a few kilometres up on the scooter to ensure this time it has been fixed correctly.

With the scooter collected, I rode back to the lodge and straight to bed. Unable to eat anything which seems to be dragging me down further. Can’t continue like this as the longer I stay in one spot the more expensive the trip becomes.

Day 13           1 Sep 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs

Feeling a little better today, it was time I got out and soak up some of the morning sun before the heat of the afternoon made riding just a little harder. It seems as I had to drink so much to remain hydrated. You don’t appear to be perspiring but I have been told the sweat evaporates very quickly and therefor, you don’t how much fluid you are losing. Dehydration in this part of the country sneaks up on you.

Rode up Anzac Hill which was the best spot to overview 360 degrees of Alice Springs and the surrounding areas. From there I set off for Simpsons Gap, about 40 kilometres down the road. With my breathing still quite laboured, I walked a very short distance and couldn’t go any further although, I would have loved to have climbed up over a few rocks allowing me to explore the area a great deal more.

Back to the Lodge where I had a beer and forced myself to eat half a meal served

Day 14           2 Sep 2011

Heavitree Gap Outback Lodge, Alice Springs to Uluru.

Feeling a good deal better this morning so hit the road at first light. It really felt good to be back on the highway discovering new territory.

I was certainly not expecting to see Uluru so far out from where it has unburied itself from the surrounding earth. It would have been some 50 kilometers up the road from there where I first saw “The Rock” and then, within the same landscape you could see an even higher bunch of rocks they call “The Olgas” JUST UNBELIEVABEL AND MIND BLOWING.

Arrived at the Uluru resort just prior to midday not that I can be sure about that as neither my phone, Ipod Touch, Laptop, Tomtom or scooter clocks were set at the local time and, besides, I really didn’t worry about the time, after all, who does when they are travelling? at Uluru, unsure as to what accommodation I would be obtaining as, with my health was still far from its best, I was certainly not wishing to tent it. I found a vast number of different priced beds available. The $3,000 a night was, alas, not in my budget but found a 4 bed dorm would be good at $54 per night. 

Paid for three nights accommodation and set off for the bar to have a very much needed VB. I had just the one but it went down barely touching the sides. The ride had tired me out quite a great deal so, off to bed I went.

A few hours later my breathing again became very hard and had uncontrollable coughing meaning I had to again seek medical assistance. This time it seemed far more urgentl. Made my way to the local Medical Clinic where I was instantly placed on Oxygen to assist with my breathing. Blood samples were taken while the Doctor made contact with the Alice Springs Hospital. They were trying to confirm the type of tablets I was given while there. It turns out the Doctor in Alice had not written this on the file so a nurse was sent to the Uluru Resort to collect whatever medications I had been taking to ensure they continued with the same.

It wasn’t until well after dark that I was released from the Medical Centre. As I was leaving the nurse told me I was to report to the manager at the Resort reception desk and added nothing more to this. I returned and as instructed went straight to reception. They had my top box there in which I had kept my medication. It was there due to them not being able to lock it and did not wish to leave it where others would have access to the contents.

It turned out the Nurse had organised for me to stay in a room to my self, I was told it was to ensure I was given the best chance of having a good rest while I remain at the resort. This, I was extremely appreciative of particularly as the Resort said there would not be any further cost for this bedding arrangement. The manager said “We just want you to feel a lot better and if there was anything further I needed, all I had to do was ask”. How about that for excellent PR?  Now feeling a lot more at ease with my breathing and still unable to eat, I had a quick beer and again back to bed.

Day 15           3 Sep 2011

Uluru

Had an interrupted sleep from coughing however my breathing was much better. Awoke just in time to find out it was time to head for “The Rock” to see the sunrise over this unbelievable site. Feeling quite better this morning, I was keen to visit this world wonder we have in the Red Centre. Riding the 20 or so kilometres in the dark was a little scary as I had to make time quickly or miss the big event of the first rays of sunlight showing above the horizon, not knowing when and how many kangaroos would find themselves looking into the light of a scooter travelling between 70 and 80 kilometres an hour straight at them.

Took many photographs then decided to do the lap around Uluru and came across the path leading up on to the top of the Rock. This path, I had since my earliest memories, wanted so much to climb but it wasn’t meant to be. I don’t know if it is my age knowing if I did embark on the hike it would either end up in disaster or having me sent quickly back the Medical Clinic because I had foolishly attempted an impossible dream due to my health. It is comforting in a funny sort of way to realise one is not bullet proof. 

It seems if I ever am able to do this climb, it will certainly need to be on another trip to the Red Centre, may be next years “Black Dog Ride to the Red Centre”?

On my return to the Resort I stopped in at the grocery store and purchased some bananas which will give me some energy rather than having to eat, what seems to be a very American style of cooking here, everything greasy and most deep fried, something I know my stomach could not handle at the best of times.
Now, mid-afternoon and have done all about I am going to do on this diary other than to say it will be another early start, all being well, for me as I ride the 40 odd kilometres out to The Olgas. More Later……..

Just prior to sunset I again jumped on the scooter and set off for Uluru to take some photographs hopefully to capture the many various colours of this monolith. 

Like my parents before me, I find it very easy to start up conversations with those I come in contact with in this sort of situation. In doing this, I have always been amazed having met, in out of the way places, people who are either related in some way or know someone who knows someone you know. This was certainly a case in point when I began chatting to a slightly older couple than myself. 

Asking them where in Victoria, having noticed their number plate, were they from. They told me they were from Leongatha in South Gippsland. I then asked them their surname as, being very interested in Genealogy, knew I had a number of relations having lived in Leongatha. The woman said her family had lived in the town since Adam was a boy but her husband was knew to the area. Her maiden name was certainly known to me from my family tree research but was unable to be able to recall Christian names I had in my tree as I have in excess of 20,000 individuals on my tree. I guessed they may have thought I was just making things up as, I know myself, it would have been hard to believe. Anyway, arrangements were made for Rod and Ann to meet me at the resort the following day as I had bought with me my laptop of course and a DVD detailing all the details I had on individuals on my tree.

Day  16          4 Sep 2011

Uluru

Feeling so much better this morning than I have for quite some time, I set out to visit The Olgars. SIMPLY AMZING, AWE INSPRINING, HUGE AND UNBELIEVABLE, just a few adjectives one could use to describe the Olgars.

For anyone wishing to one day visit Uluru, can I make these suggestions:
1/ If wanting to climb Uluru you do that on your first day it is open to be climbed. This may not be able to done on days where the wind is too strong on the summit or when temperatures become to high.

2/If you decide to climb Uluru, do it very early to make the going easier before the day warms up.

3/ If you get to the big rock prior to sunrise and you are not allowed to climb it on that day, take advantage of being so close to get your sunrise photographs taken.

4/ In my mind it is best you do the Uluru touristy bits before you even go out a little further down the road to visit the Olgas because, I believe, if you see these rock formations before Uluru you could well be disappointed by the latter. The Olgas are unimaginably higher and awe inspiriting, much so than the most famous rock of all, Uluru.

It is impossible to realise exactly how huge these Australian icons are until you have seen them and more easily to get to know their dimensions than taking a long distant photograph of them both.

Now back at the Resort at 11.00 a.m., I have nothing further planned for the day other than sit back, update this diary, say g’day to all on Facebook, then check to see if my Birt connection were from Wonthaggi and sure enough, the were. I then checked to see how there were connected to me and found them very close.

At the resort I met Rod and Ann as arranged and it was decided to cook our own meat over the BBQ with me choosing  a mix of Kangaroo, Emu, Crocodile and Camel. Having this meat with vegies thrown in from the self serve, not bad for $16. 

Having eaten, I started up the laptop and opened my family tree and searched for Ann's ancestors and moved the laptop around facing Ann and asked her to advise me how the individuals were related to her. She appeared to be very surprised  to see her parents and great grandparents, uncles and aunts pointing out who was who.  I then asked if she was at all interested to see how we were connected and her response was "yes please". I then advised her one of her aunt's was twice married, her second husband being no other than my Grandfather. 

It was a very pleasant night and prior to parting we exchanged phone numbers and both email and snail mail addresses with me promising to visit them when I get to Victoria. They are very warm and friendly people. As we parted company that night we promised to stay in touch. 

Hoping my health and lungs continue to improve as I will be hitting the highway again in the morning making my way down to Coober Pedy.

Day  17 (seems sooooooooooo much longer)    

5 Sep 2011

Uluru to Marla Road House

Okay, Okay, I hear what you are saying, so I didn’t get to Coober Pedy. Instead, I had a nice and easy 500 Klm run down to Marla Road House. Thought I deserved a break and I couldn’t have picked a better Road House for the night. I have stayed in my share of Road Houses over the years in the Australian Outback but this one must be one of the best. Set in a harsh landscape of very low scrub, desert country, the owners have taken a great deal of care in setting up this place with lawns being watered almost 24/7, at least that’s how it seemed to be. I enjoyed a quiet cool one while chatting to an Aboriginal Stockman about his life, his family and his father who came to Australia from Afghanistan to help with the cable stations and the original Ghan Railway line up the centre of the Country.

I enjoyed a proper meal of spagett Bol being the first I have been able to eat fully since falling ill. Things are on the improve, at least that’s how I am feeling at the moment with the glass now half full instead of half empty.

As I was walking back to my room I couldn’t help but notice the most magnificent red sunset I think I have ever seen and went to get my camera only to find it had been stolen from the dash of my scooter. Bugger, Bugger, Bum! I had taken so many photographs along the road today and had not uploaded them to the computer, Bugger, Bugger, Bum again. While travelling, I can't do without a camera so once I hit Coober Pedy tomorrow, as well as looking for an opal ring I have promised to buy myself, I will now be in the market for a new camera, bugger, bugger, Bum yet again.

Day  18          6 Sep 2011

Marla Road House to Coober Pedy

This morning  I awoke, after a solid nights sleep, well after the sun had lit the morning sky which is most unusual for me as I am, as a rule, awake and dreading the hours before sunlight, at about 4.00 a.m.

Made a thermos of coffee for the road, having replaced the one which I lost on the first day out, and having one before setting off on a very windy day. What I would like to know is why don’t I ever get strong tail winds? It seems all winds are doing their best to push me either over into a horizontal position or right back to where I have been.

Lizzie worked hard all morning to keep the speed over 100 kilometres per hour but still we managed to pass a number of trucks and cars/4wd’s pulling caravans. On this trip, I can honestly say, other than for the odd motor cycle, no one has passed my baby on the highway. I guess that means something about her.

I stopped along the highway for Breakfast of a toasted sandwich at a road house between Marla and Coober Pedy and an extra coffee stop just to check out how strong the wind was when I was trying to light up a cigarette. ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE!

Arrived in Coober Pedy a short time before noon and set my eyes on the local tourist information centre to enquire about fulfilling one of my life long dreams, that is, to spend at least one night in a motel underground in this Opal mining town. It was recommended I check out the Desert View Motel which, once I had found the place, was run by a very friendly chap who was only to pleased to set me up with a local Photographic shop run by a friend who was sure to give me a good bargain on a new camera. His thoughts about which opal shop I should visit wasn’t as good as, while their jewellery was impressive, they didn’t have a ring to fit my finger.

Purchased the camera for, what I believe, is a very reasonable price with me now having to wait while it sits on the bench of the motel room as the battery charged.

Meanwhile, found a lovely Greek lady (so many Greeks in this town you would swear you were either in Melbourne or Athens, that is until you look out at the surrounding landscape)  whose husband had given up the opal mining business as it seemed to him as being a joke, changing his occupation to cutting and polishing the precious gems and setting them in to rings and other forms of jewellery

After checking out the lower level priced range and not finding anything which caught my eye she invited me into the back of the shop and into her kitchen where she kindly offered me a coffee. While sitting there we talked about how this little Greek girl had come out from Greece to live in Melbourne, had met a fellow Grecian and, shortly after, was married 47 years ago.

After their wedding her groom took her on a honeymoon to, where else but, Coober Pedy. No doubt he knew what he wanted and she would just tag along with him she guesses. I could not agree more as no one in their right mind would honeymoon in Coober Pedy unless there was a very good reason to do so.

They returned to Melbourne only to pack up what belongings they had to move back up here and here she has stayed since that time while her children are spread about New South Wales and South Australia.

With the coffee finished it was back into the shop, the locked jewellery cabinets began to open with the pricier rings now on show. I guess I should say I lost an opal ring I once owned in the house fire when most of my other belongings were destroyed and promised one day to replace that ring. Opal, without any doubt, is my favourite precious stone.

One 9 carat gold ring caught my eye but was just a bit more than I had budgeted for, selling for $1,500. I was very impressed with it having, three diamonds and a solid opal fitted. I asked for the best price she could sell it for.  After phoning her husband, she said she could sell it for $1,250. Still more than I budgeted for but………………………………, I hesitate here as I am trying to come up with a very good reason as to why I should outlay this sort of money on a ring, Oh, what the hell, just do it!

A trip to the bank and after laying the cash in the lovely lady’s hand, I walked out with a new ring on my finger.

Back at the motel, I have found the rooms being the kitchen/dining area, bathroom, a lounge and two bedrooms dug into the side of the hill. All the walls have been painted white to make the most of the only light, being electrical, with no natural light showing deep into the earth. The size of this “cave” is unbelievable as I am sure, with the double bed in one bedroom, three singles in the other and the very long couch, which could sleep a further two, would be great value for a family given I am only paying $95 for the night enabling me, as I stated before, to fulfil a lifelong dream to sleep underground in Coober Pedy.

Day 19           7th Sep 2011

Coober Pedy to Port Augusta...... Again, not quite.

We all know that song from the Life of Brian which goes something like "always look on the bright side of Life, Dum Dum, Dum ... and so it goes, well, I have been trying to do that throughout this trip  but more so this afternoon. I have come up with the theory that things could always be much worse, but then again, may be I had better give that some extra thought before making a final decission.

I haven't said much about the weather after the glorious day we had heading out of Perth on the Black Dog Ride and this is because it has been much the same thoughout this journey to date but there were a few extra clouds hanging around Coober Pedy this morning as I set off a little after 8 a.m. but they soon lifted.

My thoughts about a tail wind yesterday must have done the trick as the gale force (I exagerate just a little there) cross winds I had yesterday were at my back but with a lot less intensity for the first couple of hours this morning. Lizzie appreciated the wind assistance and it wasn't long before I had my breakfast a couple of hundred kilometres down the highway at Glendambo. A quick refill of the fuel tank and I was back on the track racing toward Port Augusta, hoping to to be there by mid afternoon allowing for a few fuel stops in between.

Today was one of the very few days I knew I would be in need of using my spare fuel I have been carrying with me, so at the next rest stop I pulled in to light up a cigarette and refuel and off I was once again. It wasn't long after noon that I pulled into  Spuds Roadhouse, which is on the Stuart Highway just out of Woomera. Having refueled Lizzie I pushed her away from the bowsers and had lunch. On my return I hit the ignition but nothing happened. My second effort also failed as I checked, hope against hope, the emergency cut off switch was set in the off position, but it wasn't.

My first thought was I had battery problems as the lights on the dash board didn't light up but checking the battery terminals confirmed they were all tight and secure.Having purchased a set of jumper leads before the trip, a chap who noticed I was in trouble, offered to pull his car along side to jump start Lizzie. This effort was also to no avail.

Another bloke offered me the phone number of a local mechanic who I was told could fix anything with a roll of duct tape and a little bit of wire. Having called this bush mechanic he advised he could be there in 5 minutes but would charge a call out fee of $40. I saw no other options so agreed to this. True to his word, he arrived and checked over the battery leads then asked me to try starting Lizzie one more time, again, without success. Out of his car came a voltage metre showing the battery was fully charged. Scratching his head, this bush mechanic said "Sorry mate, can't help you" then put out his hand, not to shake mine and to wish me good luck but to take in his grasp the $40 out of my wallet. Think his mate, who first recommended I contact the mechanic, may have been working in cohoots?

A phone call to the RAC of WA, who first couldn't find my membership details due to "Trevor" being recorded as my surname and not my first christian name, were able to confirm I was covered with the highest road side cover possible but, it appears once you cross a state border, this cover reduces to the basic cover offered to drivers/riders in that state. I advised them of the problem I was having, saying I believed a motorcycle or scooter mechanic would need to have a look at it. The closest available would be at Port Augusta, still some 173 kilometres down the road. Having worked out this was the only way I could get work done on Lizzie I asked for the SAA who had been prompted into action by the RAC of WA to give me a quote on transporting the scooter to where it could be serviced. Turns out I will now need to falk out $480 for this and arrangements were made for a truck to pick up myself and Lizzie first thing in the morning.

My next thing to do was to find a beer and a room for the night at the Roadhouse to ensure I wasn't stuck out in the middle of no where without somewhere soft to place my head for the night.

Back to my "things could be much worse" They could be a whole lot worse as I could have been stuck back on the side of the road, some 90 kilometres back, where I had no comforts at all. Just another one of those things which crop up from time to time to try us I guess but you won't blame me for singing out "WHY ME?"

Day 20           8th Sep 2011

Pimba to Port Augusta

Can things get any worse? Of course they could and did.

This part of Australia isn't known for the amount of rain it receives on an annual basis but how little it gets but last night it rained and rained heavily with large puddles of water laying outside my room. As arranged, the RAA truck arrived at the Spuds Roadhouse in (can you say "in" when the roadhouse is the town?) Pimba after I had a breakfast of Baked Beans and a couple mugs of coffees. The chap driving the truck to take myself and Lizzie down to Port Augusta proved to be a very talkative chap NOT, so I gave up trying to make conversation and sat next him in the truck's cabin saying not a word for most of the 2 hour drive south.

After dropping me off at the only motorcycle repair shop in Port Augusta, he was on his way, no doubt to make someone else's attempts to be friendly, very difficult. Then things became even more tiresome as I attracted the attention of a few blokes working on motorcycles, asking them who do I see to have my scooter looked at and to give me some idea as to when this could be done. It's great to be layed back but, to this extent? I was informed they couldn't look at the scooter until after the weekend which I thought was understable but didn't realise the delay also included even asking me what was wrong with it. I was told they were flat chat and it could well pay me to walk down a few blocks to an auto electrician who may be able to "look at it" sooner. 

Thinking this was another chance to get some action, I took this walk and found the auto electrician's wife who was very apathetic but advised her husband had been called out to a small job some 250 kilometres west to repair ........... it doesn't matter but he may be home tomorrow afternoon but then again, it could be the day after. What ever the case, he would surely call me to arrange to meet for him to "have a look" at the scooter on his return home.

So here I wait for someone, anyone, to have a look at my scooter, weighing up my alternatives of which I have a few being;
1/ Wait here until someone, anyone, has a look at the scooter then carry on as originally planned
2/ Have the scooter transported further down to Adelaide
3/ Have the scooter transported back to Perth to obtain necessary repairs and I fly back.

The Port Augusta power station is undergoing a major refit and maintenance schedule at the present time with over 2,500 additional workers in the town completing this work. I was advised by the taxi driver, who picked me up from the motorcycle repair shop, a bed may be very difficult to come by but I should first go to the Tourist Information Centre to inquire. 

As it turned out, there were beds available, in the heart of town, at a nightly cost of in excess of $200 or I could go to the Shoreline Caravan Park where it is believed they had cabins available. This I did and as the saying goes "beggars cannot be choosers" I settled on this knowing if I wanted to do anything in town, such as buying groceries or meeting the Auto Electrician, it would mean ordering a taxi for this purpose, the carvan park being quite isolated from the rest of the town.

Tomorrow will have to be decission day as I am reaching the point where enough is definately enough. After all, while I didn't complete my bucket list, I have visited Alice Springs, I have seen Uluru and finaly but not least, slept underground in Coober Pedy. I should be very happy with this and leave the remaining "always wanted to do" such as visit Broken Hill, do a lap of Bathurst, tour the Blue Mountains and climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge until a later date. 

 Day 21       9th Sep 2011

Port Augusta

The Shoreline Caravan Park required me to provide my own linen for the bed, made me realise when unpacking my sleeping bag from the water proofed bag, I left tied on the scooter last night, the water proofed bag isn't what you would call "water proof". Nope, the rain we had at Pimba had managed to find its way to dampen my sleeping bag and pillow. This meant having to sleep with me fully clothed with my riding gear on to keep me warm. This situartion left me with a very uncomfortable sleep. My coughing and breathing, again a little more difficult didn't help to lift my spirits.

During the night I decided, once and for all, it was time to return home, be it I ride home should I be able to get the scooter running again or I have it transported for it back to Perth and I catch a flight as soon as possible.

At 8 o'clock I began my search for a motorcycle company who would be coming through Port Augusta on its way to Perth as I had very little faith in being able to have someone look at the problem with the scooter. I found a company who had a truck on the road and they would be going through Port Augusta by very early afternoon. Received a quote from them of $835 to pick it up from the Motorcycle repair shop today and deliver it to Ace Scooters in Joondalup next week. I had a few hours to see what else I could do before making a final decision on this. I then rang another Auto Electrician who could check on my scooter within half an hour,  requested he do so and get back to me as soon as possible explaining the situation to him.

Forty five minutes later the Auto Electrician called back saying the scooter was fixed and ready to go. A new battery was needed and the cost would be $360. Had him fit the new battery and ordered a taxi to get me to the scooter. On my arrival the scooter started up without a problem making me feel a little bit happier although, it was then I found a new problem. 

Still undecided if I should ride it back to Perth or have it shipped back, I checked the scooter over and just as well I did. Checking the tyres, I found the back tyre was tread bare. I inquired in the workshop of Northern Motorcycles if they had a new tyre to suit, of course they didn't but could get one sent up from Adelaide and it SHOULD be here by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Honestly, with a population of 13,000 people, I was told I would not find a scooter tyre in Port Augusta. A quick phone call to the transport company confirmed they were able to collect the scooter as per the quote I had received earlier but I should be at the point it was to be picked up from to sign the necessary papers. This meant I needed to be able to book a flight from Adelaide to Perth, arrange how and when I would be able to get down to Adelaide and get back in time for the transport truck to arrive, only two hours later.

Waited some 15 minutes or so for a taxi I had ordered to take me into the CBD to locate a travel agent. Once there I was able to book a flight from Adelaide to Perth for Saturday morning but I had to be back in town to catch the bus in a couple of hours as there were no flights from Port Augusta to Adelaide until Monday. No breakfast, no lunch and feeling very hungry yet I had no time to waste eating let alone grab a coffee.

Running late, the motorcycle transport truck ended up arriving at 3.30 giving me 1 hour 15 minutes to organise another taxi to take me back to the caravan park to pack up my belongings which were not already on the scooter then get back into the centre of the town at the bus depot for the coach which would be arriving in Adelaide at 9.00 p.m.

Once seated in the coach, I was able to take a breath and wonder how I managed to get all organised given the things  which have gone wrong since leaving home 21 days ago. The coach trip to Adelaide was thankfully uneventful and upon my arrival, jumped into a taxi while phoning the Adelaide Airport Motel to secure a bed for the night. Within minutes I was in the Dining room of the motel, thankfully with the chef willing to knock me up something quick, his suggestion being an omelet, which I agreed to gratefully.

Day 22    10th Sep 2011

Adelaide to Home (Thank you God)

Woke to the sound of the phone in the motel room having had requested a wake up call for 7.00am. Still not sure I had covered all the bases yesterday but knew I would be sleeping in my own bed tonight gave me a great deal of comfort. I would be able to recover from this illness which has been like a constant weight I have had to drag along with me for the best part of three weeks. The scooter would be in Perth on Monday and at that time I could collect it from the transport company and have the back tyre replaced. I will need a little time to sit back and reflect on this adventure then make up my mind if I should again attempt the Black Dog Ride being held next year, after all, I still have a few   things to do on my bucket list and who knows, they may get ticked off then?

Now home, it is to those who have kept in constant contact with me during this trip, I thank you Christine, Sonia, Tammy, Jim and  Wanda and other members of the Perth Sunset Coast Scooter Club. Without your interest and concern, I don't know how I could have coped.

Postmortem.

It's now mid November and it is now my wish to do the Black Dog Ride in 2012 and 

hopefully complete the Once Around Australia Scooter Trip as well if the two don't 

coincide which I am afraid they may. I will need to decide about these options as time

gets closer.

All those involved in the Black Dog Ride showed a great deal of humour all the time and 

proved they were on the ride for all the right reasons.

Last week the slight oil leak the scooter had appeared to get worse so had it seen to by 

Ace Scooters. This oil has been very slight since returning home and it was found the 

mechanics in Alice Springs, not knowing what they were doing, removed the sump which

was not required. Obviously they never had a new gasket to replace the old one and this

had been torn probably at the time they were working on it.

Ace has a used 400cc MP3 for sale at an excellent price given it has done less than

1,500 kilometres. I have confirmed my intention to buy this and sell Lizzie. The 400 will 

give me all the power, and more, I could possibly need making it a great deal better

tourer than Lizzie. 

The Perth Sunset Coast Scooter Club is growing from strength to strength, gaining new 

members almost weekly and all is right with the world.

Leigh